Running Time: 106 minutes
This feature film from A24 opens exclusively at cinemas on August 21st.
If you read a lot of movie reviews, then you know that the end of summer is frequently not the best time for new releases. A lot of the pictures are misfit films, and some aren’t particularly well liked by the studios that made them. But there are always a couple of exceptions. Tony is one of those pictures, a wonderfully put-together biopic about the late chef and television host Anthony Bourdain, handling an important summer in the figure’s troubled life that set a clear path for his future.
As the opening titles attest, at the age of 19 young Anthony Bourdain (Dominic Sessa) was an arrogant, aspiring writer more familiar with getting into trouble than impressing others with his craft. After failing to secure a scholarship and infuriating his hard-nosed mother (Dagmara Domińczyk), Bourdain runs away from home in pursuit of Nancy (Emilia Jones) a young woman he’s been pining for. Broke and finding her in Cape Cod, he lies, telling the unimpressed Nancy that he is in town as part of the scholarship. He takes a job as a dish washer at a small restaurant run by a man known only as Chef (Antonio Banderas). Bourdain is forced to quickly learn the frantic ways of the kitchen, often hurting himself in the process. He befriends staff member Sal (Leo Woodall), and finds himself experimenting with drugs during off hours. While the relationship between the Chef and Sal becomes strained, Bourdain finds himself stuck in the middle and developing an unexpected appreciation for the art of preparing food.
The film only deals with one summer in its subject’s life, but it turns out to be a wise storytelling choice. Bourdain isn’t focused or fully formed as a human being, getting himself into all sorts of difficulties along the way. There’s a surprising amount of tension generated from the character making bad decisions, as well as unintentionally making a friend who probably isn’t going to put him on the straight-and-narrow. This character is all new to the world of restaurants, and it’s interesting watching him get heckled and shown the ropes. For anyone who hasn’t worked in a kitchen, what is depicted is fascinating and also appears incredibly dangerous. It’s wince-inducing to watch Bourdain awkwardly attempt to shuck and oyster with a sharp blade and deal with ovens and other equipment.
The performances are also exceptional, with Sessa at times pushing Bourdain to the edge of likability while still keeping him relatable enough for us to enjoy his journey. Banderas really makes an impression as the Chef, attempting to manage various volatile personalities behind-the-scenes and make food he is proud of. All of the characters have a naturalistic manner of interacting that feels completely authentic and honest. Some bits are genuinely funny, while others are much less pleasant. No matter what is occurring, there isn’t a minute in this story where you don’t believe what you’re seeing, and that you have been transported back to a rundown Cape Cod restaurant in the 1970s. And that is a remarkable accomplishment.
And since this tale is based on a real individual, there are several awkward and completely convincing tense altercations between the characters, as well as a couple of unexpected story turns. It’s a trial-by-fire for the protagonist, and without overplaying the material, one can really see Bourdain slowly finding his calling and witness a climactic change in the young man.
There may be much more to Anthony Bourdain’s story, but this biopic chooses a very important period in his life and tells it with precision and incredible expertise. In fact, the only wonder this critic had while watching the picture was why its release hadn’t been scheduled later in the year. The performances are so strong that one can see potential awards nominations for at least a couple of the cast members. In the end, Tony is a late-summer winner, a delicious feast that will impress anyone interested in the figure or what goes on behind-the-scenes in your favorite little eatery.
